This is an important video and reasons why you should buy the "fresh outside air kit" when purchasing a woodburning stove, no matter what brand stove you have. You'll get more heat output because you're burning more direct vent oxygen, and your stove will not have to suck air from whereever it can get it which is under any door, around windows, crack or crevise which only increases the drafts that you're trying to eliminate. Give this guy a THUMBS UP for his very informative video. He just saved you money by increasing your stove's efficiency. THUMBS UP!!!
@@JimmyMeatwhistle A good easy way to look for air leaks is to tear a long strip of toilet paper about 1/2 inch wide and dangle it next a door or window edge and watch for wobbles
Great video Jimmy. I watched another RUclips video of a guy using outside air for his Craigslist Napoleon wood stove. He said he had a small shit house with single pane windows. He found his house felt warmer because he had a positive pressure from the heat of the wood stove. He said before he installed the cold air intake the rooms felt drafty from the cold air being pulled from the leaky windows. Thanks for the test.
The air has to come from somewhere! Sure, you'll have air drawn through the cracks in the walls, under the front door, window sills.... and that cold air drops down the walls and shoots across the floors on its way to the stove intake. That's what you call a drafty home. With the fresh air intake you eliminate any air pressure differential caused by the woodstove. So you won't feel that chilly breeze when laying down on the floor, when you're reading a book.
When my FiL uses the wood burning stove (his house's main source of heat), with no CAI (cold air intake), my seat in front of the front door is freezing and drafty. The air just pours in from around the door. He also burns about 11 cords of wood per winter. If he had a CAI, I'd not be surprised if he needed only 7 cords per winter.
My opinion: I'm for the fresh outdoor air intake duct hookup, but to insulate that intake pipe to the wood stove. The cold intake duct is conducting or is causing a transferred warm cabin air in BTUs/heat to itself ... It the same concept as an Air Conditioner's 'Evaporator', it attracts heat out of the room to itself.
Get a magic heat heat reclaimer, it will make a big difference. The thermostat kicks it on and off automatically once the flue hits the high set point. I have used them for 20 years now. And heat only with wood. Had a 2 story house with crap insulation and it would take it from 20 degrees to 60 in about 2 hours.
That was very interesting .could u do both test runs again but put outside termom so u can look out a window.so ur not goin in and out the door to check outside temp.and leting out the warm air and cold air in every time u open door.but i like the experment
I was just wondering why it was not suggested that I tap into an outside air source when I bought my Lopi Liberty stove. My stove sucks air from whereever it can find it, usually from under the exterior doors, and cracks and crevises, electrical plate outlets, etc. I can no longer buy the optional air intake port as they discontinued it, but it shouldn't be too bad to figure out a good engineered method on my own. I do know my house has cold air constantly hovering on the floor aiming for the stove. Then I found your RUclips video. I'm convinced I need to have a dedicated outside air source. It will also stop warm air from being used to fuel the stove.
We just ordered a lopi endeavor and the dealer suggested we do the outside air kit, its a 16 week lead time on our stove. According to the manual, every model the make uses the same air kit. Unless you have a really old model, they should be still making the kit. Otherwise our dealer wouldn't have ordered us one
Hello Jim, I was thinking, and I dont know what you have planned for outside air intake, or how far along you are with your plans , But my thought is to box it in, build a 3 sided box, attach to side of cabin, run up to eaves, you can sort of match side of cabin with some brown paint, running a silver flex tube up will defiantly be a stand out, also leave top "and bottom" of box open in case some thing gets in there it can drop out of the bottom, or you can help it find the escape on the bottom. I wouldn't change the screen or slotted metal piece thats there, just box it in and run it up. Good Luck, Happy New Year from Boston.
Thanks for the comment and info Hunter, much appreciated. That is a good plan. I still haven't got around to it yet but your idea is a good one 👍 I definitely don't want to run some nasty silver pipe up the side of the cabin this for sure 😄. Happy New Year!!
And on further thought, think this will be simpler, build "4" sided box, securing 4th side to cabin wall, now add 3 sided box to that, and secure."4th" side should terminate at top of hole cut in log (for air), other 3 sides could be a foot, a foot and a half, longer. I think this will save you trying to scribe and cut to boards to fit cabin wall. G/L.
There is a reason why outside air works better than inside air. Your cabin insulation and you going in and out effect the results. Air brought in from outside is cold, goes directly into your stove where it expands and creates a positive pressure within the cabin forcing or pushing air out of openings and crevices. Stove pulling air from within the cabin is creating a negative pressure that sucks in air and oxygen from crevices and door opening. Also your fire is hotter from outside because of oxygen percentage is higher. Your fire that feeds on cabin air is using depleted oxygen within the cabin then creates a vacuum pulling colder air in from outside instead of pushing hotter air from the inside. Laws of thermodynamics and entropy and fire combustion and oxygen mix ratios. Hopefully you understood what I was trying to point at. Already did research on this but based on home insulation studies, and sealing homes for heat loss, and related studies for air intake, and condensation etc etc in a home build.
exactly, I had what seemed like a knowledgeable fireplace retailer old guy that said why would you want to bring in cold air to your house? I didn't want to crush his old ego so I let it go, since he thinks he accomplished knowing it all
Is there a reason you didn't hang the outside gauge on the branch next to the window? You know, so you don't let cold air in everytime you open the door.
that seems to be burning fast as hell in both examples. I still use a damper myself...why send it up when it does better down low! a guy earlier that i liked his comment said "hang in front of your window so you stop opening door." Your test is far from scientific, as mine also are. I just love the scenery and concept of surviving from the land.
I've read that newer stoves only consume about the same amount of air that a bathroom vent would use on low setting. Have no idea how true this is, but that doesn't seem like much air. I still think a CAI is probably the better route.
This must be safer too no? Like less chance of carbon monoxide poisoning? I got a van with a little scrap steel stove i made and I can't go through the wall bit was thinking of going through the floor.
hello, I have a tin fireplace and it has vermiculite inside, wouldn't it give and retain heat longer if I replaced it with chamotte? I understood that vermiculite has an insulating role.
Love your videos. I imagine that to heat the cabin from 5 to 20c would be even more efficient, as the internal air being used contains much more heat (wood) than air around freezing.
Thanks for the vids Jimmy... Couple of thoughts... "time" to get up to temp is a good measure, the quicker the better, however, I'd be more interested in any performance differences once to temp and overnight... were there any noticeable "comfort" differences? such as more or less drafts and/or cold spots? or + - wind changes when just going in & out thru the door? Number of logs necessary to maintain the temp? Personally, for me the measurement I'm most interested in is "overnight heat loss"... Does having an air intake slow the "rate" of overnight heat loss within the cabin? Are morning temps any different? are there more or less coals left in the morning? I'd also like to add that I found that installing a ceiling fan, pushing the air Up vastly improved the comfort and efficiency in my situation. It made the area much more comfortable, I was using slightly less logs to maintain temp, and kept the area warmer longer. much better morning temps! The ceiling is always much warmer than the floor. A gradient layering. A ceiling fan recaptures that wasted heat. My conclusion is that it takes the very hot air collecting at the ceiling and pushes it out and down the walls towards the floor, and mixes with the cool air from the floor, which then flows back up and repeat... a convection action I believe... Otherwise the cabin is only heating from the top down. It seems that your cabin does have electricity based on the lamps I see in your vids., so a fan is probably a fairly simple install. something to consider. Thanks again for the vids! I look forward to your future ones...
Great comment. I was thinking about that while doing this test. Most people living with a wood stove aren't going to let it totally freeze out there living space before firing it up again. Will definitely try what you suggested this winter and post my findings. 👍🍻
@@JimmyMeatwhistle That would be very interesting to know. Because any improvement that can help get through the night would be worth the effort. I for one hate having to "re-Heat" the cabin from scratch again every morning.
Cold air holds more O2 particles so the fire should burn hotter. However with internal/in house air intake will dry out the house better as it sucks in the moist air.
Using indoor air to heat the stove will dry out the interior more because cold winter air is bone dry and coming into the living space via cracks/holes/etc in the house.
Not to complicate your experiment, but for the sake of safety, did you take carbon monoxide measurements during either test? If not, hopefully you get a good cheap meter for the cabin soon. Nice video - thanks!
I was watching and it look like UR stove is slow at warming the cabin up. I heat my garage with an old fireplace insert , 15x20 foot space and in no time i am heating at 60 . Started at 30. My garage is NOT insulated, meaning , tin roof and block walls. I do not have a fresh air in take for the stove, so i do not see the reason for outside hook up!!! Nice job on the video!!!
K &D SCRAPPING; the new stoves are junk compared to the old stoves. I hunt Facebook market place to find what i want for old stoves lol. I had a brand new one and i hated it.
@@paulshimer1870 I have looked at the new ones, i do not think i would buy one. I sold my biggest stove to a Buddy 2 years ago, It was a Fisher model, the biggest one they made back in the 70s, He loves it !!
Don't know that your test meets with the standard of the "Scientific Method", but I do know you have good taste in bourbon. That stuff you're drinkin' is distilled, aged and bottled right here in my hometown of Louisville ( pronounced Lu Ah Vull, if you want to sound like a native ). Good video.
@@JimmyMeatwhistle That would cut down on the speed of which your wood is burning and retain more heat in the stove. It could possibly go in either the outside intake air or the exhaust.
Hi Jon, thanks for the comment and info. I have fresh air intake coming into the bottom of the stove and can control how much air is coming into the stove. But nothing above the stove as far as a damper
Open the door closed the door open the door closed the door (think )? and think again you open the door cold air come in every time you open the door cold air come in .One person in one person outside ( think /
This isn't really a test of if the fresh air intake works or not, it's more of an air-tightness test of your cabin. When you light a fire and begin drawing air up the chimney and pumping it to the outside, that air has to come from somewhere. Without the fresh air intake installed, the negative pressure results in air coming in from all the little cracks and leaks around your windows and doors and even gaps in your walls. When you add a fresh air intake to your stove, you're providing that stove all the air it could ever want, this allows for a hotter burn (no restriction), but you're also no longer drawing cold air from in and around your windows and doors. Bottom line is the intake just changes where the sucked in air is coming from... From the vent... instead of that crack in the wall behind your bed at night. Always use the intake if you can, even better if the air comes in at the back of the stove and gets preheated as it enters the firebox.
I was going to comment the same thing: "The must come from somewhere." With the dedicated fresh air intake, you know where and how much (if you add a damper/valve to the intake duct). The intake duct only needs to be ~2 inches in diameter, because the air expands about 5 times its volume when it is burned. That 2 inch diameter intake is what most stoves require. A larger intake duct may be necessary in your area (code compliance) or if you have a large stove that the manufacturer's engineers dictate/specify.
I am no expert here but as I search the internet on this subject for the latest reliable information on this I would suggest an individual do some further research before going to the trouble and cost of adding an outside air intake to a wood stove both for practical and safety reasons. The latest recommendations I found from those wood stove manufactures who do their own research and design and those that conduct carefully controlled tests of woods stoves is not to add an outside air intake unless required by local codes. There are several key points that support this recommendation. One is that unlike fossil fuel furnaces the amount of combustion air used by wood stoves is but a fraction of the air that normally infiltrates into a home. For a well sealed modern home I see wood stove air combustion estimates of perhaps 20%, and for an older home probably just a couple percent of air that normally moves through a house. Air infiltration into a home is more strongly influenced by outside wind speed which reduces air pressure inside and that dwarfs any amount of air pulled into the house either through cracks or through an external pipe to the stove during wood combustion. An open combustion air supply pipe also represents a potential air leak to the outside whenever combustion is not creating a draft up the chimney. When an outside air intake is in the lee (wind coming from the opposite side of the house) air from inside the home will sucked out through intake pipe over the coals when the stove is damped down rather than up the chimney. So an air intake must be gated after combustion to avoid this possibility. If an air intake has soot deposits then it has acted as a chimney which may be a fire hazard. Thus that air intake is really just another big crack where air may leak in a potentially dangerous manner. Although it seems logical that if you reduce the loss of warm air up the chimney and replace it with cold outside air, a home will be warmer. But wood stoves (not fireplaces or furnaces) just do not use much air for combustion especially compared to normal air infiltration. Wind speed is much more important in determining how much cold air moves through a given home rather than what is used by a wood stove. Very interesting topic for us wood burners!
I know the intent was to be informative, but this is a really a poor test. Few thoughts, In the 2nd video you're going in and out like what 9-10 times? In the first video I only counted 3 outdoor entries. That's a lot of cold air dumping into the cabin. The OAK wide open in the back of the stove instead of stuffing it which means it's also dumping in cold air into the room behind the stove. Also, no thermometer on the stove and no weighing of the fuel. Also, the stove is running with the air wide open so there's no secondary combustion and there is a lot of heat wasted up the flue. (And dude, wear some gloves when loading.)
About that. Talc stove is not suitable for quick heating . Rather, on permanent heating which gives slow heat. You should buy a True north stove or a jotul f45 . www.hearth.com/talk/threads/jotul-f45-greenville-experiences.184121/ Modern stove is rather suffocating and the primary that uses outdoor air is used little . The secondary goes just outside the outdoor air and heats up very much under the deflector . Using primary air, you let a lot of heat into the chimney .
This is an important video and reasons why you should buy the "fresh outside air kit" when purchasing a woodburning stove, no matter what brand stove you have. You'll get more heat output because you're burning more direct vent oxygen, and your stove will not have to suck air from whereever it can get it which is under any door, around windows, crack or crevise which only increases the drafts that you're trying to eliminate. Give this guy a THUMBS UP for his very informative video. He just saved you money by increasing your stove's efficiency. THUMBS UP!!!
Thank you for the awesome comment. Have a great weekend 🍻👍
@@JimmyMeatwhistle A good easy way to look for air leaks is to tear a long strip of toilet paper about 1/2 inch wide and dangle it next a door or window edge and watch for wobbles
hang thermometer outside window so you dont have to keep opening door
Great video Jimmy. I watched another RUclips video of a guy using outside air for his Craigslist Napoleon wood stove. He said he had a small shit house with single pane windows. He found his house felt warmer because he had a positive pressure from the heat of the wood stove. He said before he installed the cold air intake the rooms felt drafty from the cold air being pulled from the leaky windows. Thanks for the test.
Thanks for the info Doug and thanks for the comment. I'll definitely be hooking this thing back up and insulating it. 👍🍻
Good follow up test! I think it showed it makes a difference!
The air has to come from somewhere! Sure, you'll have air drawn through the cracks in the walls, under the front door, window sills.... and that cold air drops down the walls and shoots across the floors on its way to the stove intake. That's what you call a drafty home. With the fresh air intake you eliminate any air pressure differential caused by the woodstove. So you won't feel that chilly breeze when laying down on the floor, when you're reading a book.
Good stuff! But stack temp is important also , no need to have all the heat go up the chimney and burn logs slower !
Thanks for the follow up.....Makes sense that it would work, but a real time test is proof.
I was happy to do it. I wanted to see for myself if it actually made a difference or not. Thanks for the comment🍻👍
When my FiL uses the wood burning stove (his house's main source of heat), with no CAI (cold air intake), my seat in front of the front door is freezing and drafty.
The air just pours in from around the door.
He also burns about 11 cords of wood per winter.
If he had a CAI, I'd not be surprised if he needed only 7 cords per winter.
Thanks for this follow up Vid! Installing a new stove with the same option to take in fresh air from a separate intake direct from outside👍🏻
My opinion: I'm for the fresh outdoor air intake duct hookup, but to insulate that intake pipe to the wood stove. The cold intake duct is conducting or is causing a transferred warm cabin air in BTUs/heat to itself ... It the same concept as an Air Conditioner's 'Evaporator', it attracts heat out of the room to itself.
100% agree with you. I have the insulation ready to go🍻👍
@@JimmyMeatwhistle Insulating with crappy Christmas hats? ha ha
Haha, yup. If you get enough of them they work great. But finding the elves is the hard part 😳
Get a magic heat heat reclaimer, it will make a big difference. The thermostat kicks it on and off automatically once the flue hits the high set point. I have used them for 20 years now. And heat only with wood. Had a 2 story house with crap insulation and it would take it from 20 degrees to 60 in about 2 hours.
Great information there. Thank you, much appreciated 👍🍻
Those stack robbers are illegal in many places because they promote creosote because the smoke can get too cool.
@@BrianDoherty-e8s i've read the same thing, they are called creosote machines
No don't do it especially with a modern high efficiency stove
That was very interesting .could u do both test runs again but put outside termom so u can look out a window.so ur not goin in and out the door to check outside temp.and leting out the warm air and cold air in every time u open door.but i like the experment
Thanks. I tried to go in and out the same amount of time with each video🍻👍
I was just wondering why it was not suggested that I tap into an outside air source when I bought my Lopi Liberty stove. My stove sucks air from whereever it can find it, usually from under the exterior doors, and cracks and crevises, electrical plate outlets, etc. I can no longer buy the optional air intake port as they discontinued it, but it shouldn't be too bad to figure out a good engineered method on my own. I do know my house has cold air constantly hovering on the floor aiming for the stove. Then I found your RUclips video. I'm convinced I need to have a dedicated outside air source. It will also stop warm air from being used to fuel the stove.
Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated 👍🍻
We just ordered a lopi endeavor and the dealer suggested we do the outside air kit, its a 16 week lead time on our stove. According to the manual, every model the make uses the same air kit. Unless you have a really old model, they should be still making the kit. Otherwise our dealer wouldn't have ordered us one
Hello Jim, I was thinking, and I dont know what you have planned for outside air intake, or how far along you are with your plans , But my thought is to box it in, build a 3 sided box, attach to side of cabin, run up to eaves, you can sort of match side of cabin with some brown paint, running a silver flex tube up will defiantly be a stand out, also leave top "and bottom" of box open in case some thing gets in there it can drop out of the bottom, or you can help it find the escape on the bottom. I wouldn't change the screen or slotted metal piece thats there, just box it in and run it up. Good Luck, Happy New Year from Boston.
Thanks for the comment and info Hunter, much appreciated. That is a good plan. I still haven't got around to it yet but your idea is a good one 👍 I definitely don't want to run some nasty silver pipe up the side of the cabin this for sure 😄. Happy New Year!!
And on further thought, think this will be simpler, build "4" sided box, securing 4th side to cabin wall, now add 3 sided box to that, and secure."4th" side should terminate at top of hole cut in log (for air), other 3 sides could be a foot, a foot and a half, longer. I think this will save you trying to scribe and cut to boards to fit cabin wall. G/L.
There is a reason why outside air works better than inside air. Your cabin insulation and you going in and out effect the results. Air brought in from outside is cold, goes directly into your stove where it expands and creates a positive pressure within the cabin forcing or pushing air out of openings and crevices. Stove pulling air from within the cabin is creating a negative pressure that sucks in air and oxygen from crevices and door opening. Also your fire is hotter from outside because of oxygen percentage is higher. Your fire that feeds on cabin air is using depleted oxygen within the cabin then creates a vacuum pulling colder air in from outside instead of pushing hotter air from the inside. Laws of thermodynamics and entropy and fire combustion and oxygen mix ratios. Hopefully you understood what I was trying to point at. Already did research on this but based on home insulation studies, and sealing homes for heat loss, and related studies for air intake, and condensation etc etc in a home build.
Air from out side im gonna use is a old dryer vent and will probally be a 30 foot run but will supply outside air it should work right.
exactly, I had what seemed like a knowledgeable fireplace retailer old guy that said why would you want to bring in cold air to your house? I didn't want to crush his old ego so I let it go, since he thinks he accomplished knowing it all
great info the funny thing I heard was -17 outside and you didnt think it was more than -14 thats 1.4F-6.8F to effers
Is there a reason you didn't hang the outside gauge on the branch next to the window? You know, so you don't let cold air in everytime you open the door.
that seems to be burning fast as hell in both examples. I still use a damper myself...why send it up when it does better down low!
a guy earlier that i liked his comment said "hang in front of your window so you stop opening door."
Your test is far from scientific, as mine also are. I just love the scenery and concept of surviving from the land.
I've read that newer stoves only consume about the same amount of air that a bathroom vent would use on low setting. Have no idea how true this is, but that doesn't seem like much air. I still think a CAI is probably the better route.
Great vid bud. Enjoyed it. And good info. Subbing
Great video have a new fresh air on my wood stove
This must be safer too no? Like less chance of carbon monoxide poisoning? I got a van with a little scrap steel stove i made and I can't go through the wall bit was thinking of going through the floor.
Nice on the tool list. I see you had your safety equipment the protective hat. lol
hello, I have a tin fireplace and it has vermiculite inside, wouldn't it give and retain heat longer if I replaced it with chamotte? I understood that vermiculite has an insulating role.
Thanks, very interesting test
New sub here from the uk!great content 👌
Thanks for the comment and thanks for the sub! 👍🍻
definitive proof !
Fantastic 😍💋 💝💖♥️❤️
Love your videos.
I imagine that to heat the cabin from 5 to 20c would be even more efficient, as the internal air being used contains much more heat (wood) than air around freezing.
Thanks for the vids Jimmy... Couple of thoughts... "time" to get up to temp is a good measure, the quicker the better, however, I'd be more interested in any performance differences once to temp and overnight... were there any noticeable "comfort" differences? such as more or less drafts and/or cold spots? or + - wind changes when just going in & out thru the door? Number of logs necessary to maintain the temp? Personally, for me the measurement I'm most interested in is "overnight heat loss"... Does having an air intake slow the "rate" of overnight heat loss within the cabin? Are morning temps any different? are there more or less coals left in the morning?
I'd also like to add that I found that installing a ceiling fan, pushing the air Up vastly improved the comfort and efficiency in my situation. It made the area much more comfortable, I was using slightly less logs to maintain temp, and kept the area warmer longer. much better morning temps! The ceiling is always much warmer than the floor. A gradient layering. A ceiling fan recaptures that wasted heat. My conclusion is that it takes the very hot air collecting at the ceiling and pushes it out and down the walls towards the floor, and mixes with the cool air from the floor, which then flows back up and repeat... a convection action I believe... Otherwise the cabin is only heating from the top down. It seems that your cabin does have electricity based on the lamps I see in your vids., so a fan is probably a fairly simple install. something to consider.
Thanks again for the vids! I look forward to your future ones...
Great comment. I was thinking about that while doing this test. Most people living with a wood stove aren't going to let it totally freeze out there living space before firing it up again. Will definitely try what you suggested this winter and post my findings. 👍🍻
@@JimmyMeatwhistle Just watched another video and realized that you already have a ceiling fan!
We do but I kept it off for this test. Definitely want to see how heat is maintained once up to temperature with and without the air intake
@@JimmyMeatwhistle That would be very interesting to know. Because any improvement that can help get through the night would be worth the effort. I for one hate having to "re-Heat" the cabin from scratch again every morning.
Agreed, its not fun in -20 lol
Cold air holds more O2 particles so the fire should burn hotter. However with internal/in house air intake will dry out the house better as it sucks in the moist air.
Using indoor air to heat the stove will dry out the interior more because cold winter air is bone dry and coming into the living space via cracks/holes/etc in the house.
Hey Jimmy Meatwhistle, I've got a meatwhistle of my own for you!!!
... great videos man!
Can I get a summary of results. My internet isn't working right
Not to complicate your experiment, but for the sake of safety, did you take carbon monoxide measurements during either test? If not, hopefully you get a good cheap meter for the cabin soon. Nice video - thanks!
Hi, I have a carbon monoxide alarm with a digital display and both nights nothing changed.
I was watching and it look like UR stove is slow at warming the cabin up. I heat my garage with an old fireplace insert , 15x20 foot space and in no time i am heating at 60 . Started at 30. My garage is NOT insulated, meaning , tin roof and block walls. I do not have a fresh air in take for the stove, so i do not see the reason for outside hook up!!! Nice job on the video!!!
Thank the comment. If everything is frozen solid inside and out it takes a little longer and of course depending on the temperature
K &D SCRAPPING; the new stoves are junk compared to the old stoves. I hunt Facebook market place to find what i want for old stoves lol. I had a brand new one and i hated it.
@@paulshimer1870 I have looked at the new ones, i do not think i would buy one. I sold my biggest stove to a Buddy 2 years ago, It was a Fisher model, the biggest one they made back in the 70s, He loves it !!
@@paulshimer1870 If U check my channel out U will see the one I use!!
Don't know that your test meets with the standard of the "Scientific Method", but I do know you have good taste in bourbon. That stuff you're drinkin' is distilled, aged and bottled right here in my hometown of Louisville ( pronounced Lu Ah Vull, if you want to sound like a native ). Good video.
Thanks John, much appreciated 🍻👍
@@JimmyMeatwhistle Love the last name.
Do you have a damper on your stove pipe? I didn't notice one.
Hi, nope, no damper on the stove pipe
@@JimmyMeatwhistle That would cut down on the speed of which your wood is burning and retain more heat in the stove. It could possibly go in either the outside intake air or the exhaust.
Hi Jon, thanks for the comment and info. I have fresh air intake coming into the bottom of the stove and can control how much air is coming into the stove. But nothing above the stove as far as a damper
Great!!! You should buy heat resistant leather work gloves!!
Open the door closed the door open the door closed the door (think )? and think again you open the door cold air come in every time you open the door cold air come in .One person in one person outside ( think /
Not Santa's hat!? Noooo!!!😱
haha! Actually, it was my hat 😁
3 hours of burning didnt bring that little cabin up to a comfortable temp? Thats nuts
Yep not a chance 3 hours. it would take a good day I would think to get it up to t-shirt Temps
well without the fresh air intake you actually ventilate the cabin, sucking out moisture and bad air
Hi and thanks for the comment. This one does have a fresh air intake hooked up to it at the moment. 🍻👍
@@JimmyMeatwhistle did you read my comment right?
This isn't really a test of if the fresh air intake works or not, it's more of an air-tightness test of your cabin.
When you light a fire and begin drawing air up the chimney and pumping it to the outside, that air has to come from somewhere.
Without the fresh air intake installed, the negative pressure results in air coming in from all the little cracks and leaks around your windows and doors and even gaps in your walls.
When you add a fresh air intake to your stove, you're providing that stove all the air it could ever want, this allows for a hotter burn (no restriction), but you're also no longer drawing cold air from in and around your windows and doors.
Bottom line is the intake just changes where the sucked in air is coming from...
From the vent... instead of that crack in the wall behind your bed at night.
Always use the intake if you can, even better if the air comes in at the back of the stove and gets preheated as it enters the firebox.
I was going to comment the same thing: "The must come from somewhere." With the dedicated fresh air intake, you know where and how much (if you add a damper/valve to the intake duct). The intake duct only needs to be ~2 inches in diameter, because the air expands about 5 times its volume when it is burned. That 2 inch diameter intake is what most stoves require. A larger intake duct may be necessary in your area (code compliance) or if you have a large stove that the manufacturer's engineers dictate/specify.
I am no expert here but as I search the internet on this subject for the latest reliable information on this I would suggest an individual do some further research before going to the trouble and cost of adding an outside air intake to a wood stove both for practical and safety reasons. The latest recommendations I found from those wood stove manufactures who do their own research and design and those that conduct carefully controlled tests of woods stoves is not to add an outside air intake unless required by local codes. There are several key points that support this recommendation. One is that unlike fossil fuel furnaces the amount of combustion air used by wood stoves is but a fraction of the air that normally infiltrates into a home. For a well sealed modern home I see wood stove air combustion estimates of perhaps 20%, and for an older home probably just a couple percent of air that normally moves through a house. Air infiltration into a home is more strongly influenced by outside wind speed which reduces air pressure inside and that dwarfs any amount of air pulled into the house either through cracks or through an external pipe to the stove during wood combustion. An open combustion air supply pipe also represents a potential air leak to the outside whenever combustion is not creating a draft up the chimney. When an outside air intake is in the lee (wind coming from the opposite side of the house) air from inside the home will sucked out through intake pipe over the coals when the stove is damped down rather than up the chimney. So an air intake must be gated after combustion to avoid this possibility. If an air intake has soot deposits then it has acted as a chimney which may be a fire hazard. Thus that air intake is really just another big crack where air may leak in a potentially dangerous manner. Although it seems logical that if you reduce the loss of warm air up the chimney and replace it with cold outside air, a home will be warmer. But wood stoves (not fireplaces or furnaces) just do not use much air for combustion especially compared to normal air infiltration. Wind speed is much more important in determining how much cold air moves through a given home rather than what is used by a wood stove. Very interesting topic for us wood burners!
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I know the intent was to be informative, but this is a really a poor test. Few thoughts, In the 2nd video you're going in and out like what 9-10 times? In the first video I only counted 3 outdoor entries. That's a lot of cold air dumping into the cabin. The OAK wide open in the back of the stove instead of stuffing it which means it's also dumping in cold air into the room behind the stove. Also, no thermometer on the stove and no weighing of the fuel. Also, the stove is running with the air wide open so there's no secondary combustion and there is a lot of heat wasted up the flue.
(And dude, wear some gloves when loading.)
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About that. Talc stove is not suitable for quick heating . Rather, on permanent heating which gives slow heat. You should buy a True north stove or a jotul f45 .
www.hearth.com/talk/threads/jotul-f45-greenville-experiences.184121/
Modern stove is rather suffocating and the primary that uses outdoor air is used little . The secondary goes just outside the outdoor air and heats up very much under the deflector . Using primary air, you let a lot of heat into the chimney .
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Oh yeah. Do you love me? 😍💋 💝💖❤️
wood burners stink up the air
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